Monday, January 14, 2019

Period makeup essay

Period essay


This essay will discuss and compare different time period characteristics from one another. It will also
explain what forced the time period style to change and style icons that had an influence on the
different fashions. It will use primary and secondary source to back up evidence about these changes.


The ancient palette
Rouge is the longest-lasting makeup item in existence, it is a multipurpose item and it is a primary
colour that can quite easily be made. 'The earliest rouge would have been sticks of red ochre pigment
made by iron oxides with animal fat or vegetable oil' (They story of makeup). Cochineal and kermes
types of insects were dried and used to produce carmine pigment, a bloody-red lead. This was used
over many different cultures and time periods including ancient Egypt, China, Japan, Rome and Greece.
This photo here is a ancient palette from in Egypt from a tomb.
(Photo from ‘The Metropolitan Museum of Art’)


The Egyptians
Many cosmetic materials still popular today including kohl and henna were first used in ancient Egypt.
(The evolution of makeup)
Makeup artists have been around since the days of the Egyptians and their influence on fashion, media
and consumers can be seen in the way they are now recognized as their faces were painted.
The Egyptians were sophisticated chemists and they loved makeup, blending ingredients to prepare co
smetics. Ranging from moisturiser rizer, kohl, lip and cheek rouge to nail colour. (The story of makeup).

T
hey would make various powders from natural materials including nuts and minerals. They would then
mix them with animal fat and or vegetable oil to make the texture of the mixture so that it would be able to
be applied to the face with ease. Mixing equipment such as palettes, grinders and applicators have been

  found among the earliest burial sites. (The story of makeup).                  (Photo from the BBC)

This suggests they were not only essential in daily life but also in the afterlife. The Egyptians are mainly
known for their eye makeup. However, they also are known for their use of bright red lipsticks that were
homemade from red ochre.
Egyption women would wear a lot of makeup compared with woman of later centuries.
(The story of makeup). Women of the Egyptian time period had a fair amount of autonomy. An early
document called 'The Wilbour papyrus' shows us that ten to eleven percent of landowners were female.
(The woman of smallholders and the military). A reason for this could be to do with the fact they had a
female leader on the throne called Nefertiti. As one of the most powerful women in ancient Egypt,
Nefertiti was queen alongside Pharaoh Akhenaten from 1353 to 1336 B.C. and ruled Egypt after her
husband’s death. Nefertiti is best known for her painted sandstone bust, which was rediscovered in
1913 and became a global icon of feminine beauty and power. (History Channel)


Ancient Egypt was so accepting of makeup and had a lot of experimental work because it was one of
the first societies to wear makeup. However, as time goes on civilizations would not prove to be so
open-minded.
Men used to style their lashes just as often as women. They used kohl and ointments to darken the
lashes, which also served as protection for their eyes from the sun's harmful rays. (Marie Claire)
Hieroglyphics were called, by the Egyptians, “the words of God” and were used mainly by the
priests. This art included images of things that were happening at the time and images of people.
This gives us today a good insight into what the makeup actually looked like in the ancient
Egyptian time as they are drawings from that time period and it is a very good primary source
for getting a real look into the Egyptian fashion. (Discover Egypt)


The Tudors
In the Tudor period poppy seeds were mixed with eggs, alum (along with mineral and borax) to make
the skin white paint for the skin. Lead ore, mercury, egg whites, pestle, motar, cinnabar and vermilion
were also used to make makeup in the for various products.
Talc and fig juice were used by grinding them with a mortar and postal. Bright red cinnabar was used
as blusher. Elizabeth I used these items and the ladies at the court copied her.
Cosmetics were not popular during the early part of the Tudor period however, perfumes and lotions
were. Skin softening products were created using sesame seed oil, beeswax and honey. These
ingredients are still used in products similar today. (DK finds)
Tudor makeup was also a way ladies could show off their wealth, if you had a pale face it would show
you did not need to work in the fields doing hard labour to live. As shown in portraits of wealthy people
of this time such as Henry VIII's wives. In this portrait of Anne Boleyn it shows her face to be very
pale with very little colour besides a small amount of blush. As Anne was wealthy she would not need
to work so she would add white to exaggerate this fact.


Portraits are a very good way of finding out what the makeup was really like in the Tudor period. As
photographs hadn't been invented they are a good way to grasp what the makeup was intended to look
like at this time. (BBC)
(Photo from the BBC)


During the crusades, cosmetic products were brought back to Europe for the wealthy to use. This was
when Henry VIII reigned. (The fundamentals of makeup). He also used cosmetic's to make his face pale.
This may be another reason why it was popular because royalty at the time were doing it. Face products
such as mascara, eyeshadow and eyebrow products can also be seen in the portraits. Face foundation
was not popular at the time it was all about the eyes. (The fundamentals of makeup).
Ceruse was the main ingredient in the white face paint. This was a mixture of white lead and vinegar.
This made it very toxic to the body and many people of this time period died young from lead poisoning.
( The fundamentals of makeup).


The fashion at the time for eyebrows was to have them in a natural-looking arch. They would pluck them
to fit in with this trend and they would also use makeup to define the arch shape more.


The 20s
Before the 1920’s “nice girls” did not wear makeup, it was known as “paint”. This was different from
face creams as these products were intended to improve the skin, not mask it the way “paint” did.
At first beauty products were not about changing looks but about enhancing natural beauty
(Evolution of makeup). In the 20s beauty and cosmetic lines became big business. Helen Rubinstein
and Elizabeth Arden worked alongside chemists to make some of the first sunblocks. Elizabeth Arden
started to create powders that were tinted to give a sun-kissed glow,  she made liquid rouge, eyeshadow
and lipsticks, choice of makeup in the 20s was limited and never matched natural skin tones. Women
had never been taught to apply makeup so the effect was often ghastly. Makeup improved and
progressed during this decade and it became a 52 million dollar industry. (vintage Dancer)
(Photo from vintage dancer)


Popular lipsticks for the decade were Raspberry-red for most of the 20s and rose-red by the late 20s,
these also became available in a compact due to their popularity. Lipstick had been around in metal
tubes since 1915, ladies enjoyed being able to carry their lipstick with them and touch up when needed.
Ladies in the 20s used a matte red for their lips, eyes smudged kohl rims. Kohl was used as eye shadow
cream which became more available later in the decade. Dark grays were favorite but woman chose
shades that matched the eye colour. Eyebrows were shaped thin and curved with a slight downwards
point at the inner eye, only brown or black pencil for the eye was available until later in the decade.
(vintage beauty parlour).
Related imageAs Max factor quotes “You are not born glamorous, glamor is created”. Coco Chanel popularized a now
classic look in the 20s; dark eyes, red lipstick and suntan. The silver screen played a great part in the
1920s and magazines like photography discussed the virtues of beauty and what was acceptable or not
in the world of cosmetics. Women wanted to look like the film stars of the day from hair to make up.
Stars like Clara Bow and Josephine Baker made the “flapper” look very popular (The story of makeup)
cupid's-bow lips were a popular look for “flapper” girls in the 1920s (Period makeup) and strong dark
eyes.
A Lot of the big makeup brands are still around from the this decade and still known designer names
ie; Coco Chanel and Elizabeth Arden are still worldwide leaders in the cosmetic industry. Beautiful
packaging that started in the 20s is still around today. Ladies like to be able to carry lipsticks
around in their handbags and still like to copy new techniques to apply makeup or still copy
the stars of today. Also magazines play a major part in advertising and images to sell makeup
products.


The 60s
The most prominent amongst all iconic 1960s makeup trends was a thick winged eyeliner.
A famous model of this time was a woman called Twiggy. She was very well known for using
the thick eyeliner look. Women would draw a thick line across of their eye, keeping it close to
the lash line. This gave the cat eye appearance as well as making the eyes look more open.
To complete the look they would flick the line out aiming towards the tale of the eyebrow and
it created a wing effect. This was done with a black eyeliner pencil. (Hair and make-up artist)
Eyeshadow at this time period was mostly cool tones like brown and light reds. Big brands
around this time such as Helena Rubinstein and Max Factor would create palettes to give
everyone the opportunity to look like models such as Twiggy giving everyone a chance to look
like a model. (Photo from Retro beauty)
Image result for mascara from the 1960sA quote from Twiggy herself says "The sixties were a time when ordinary people could do
extraordinary things". (Iconic makeup trends). This shows that any women were accepted to
wear makeup therefore big brands at the time would produce affordable palettes for the
population, making trends start such as the chunky eyeliner trend set off my Twiggy.
Cut crease eyeshadow was a huge trend of the 60s and it is very recognisable from this time
period. A cut crease is where the lid of the eye is curved out precisely with the eyeshadow color,
covering the entirety of the space, while the crease is blended out with an alternate colour.
(Makeup and hair trends). (Photo from Retro beauty)
Image result for twiggy primary source

False eyelashes also came out in the 60s, again because of model Twiggy and her unique eyelash style.
She used them in photographs on the top and bottom lash line to make her eyes appear much larger.  
The longer and spidery they were the better. Then a large amount of mascara over the top. Brands such
as Max factor 'Magic mascara' were very popular at this time. (Marie Claire)
(Photo from Makeup and hair trends)


In the 60s pale cream foundation was used to cover the face as pale skin was in fashion at this
time. Peachy cheeks were in fashion thanks again to the models of the time. (Retro beauty)
This would be applied using powder as cream as liquid blushes were not available yet.
Eyebrows at this time would be perfectly sculpted and with a full body. They would be very
well groomed also. They achieved this look by plucking them to the correct shape and filling
them in using an eyebrow pencil. Pale pink lipstick was also in fashion and occasional subtle
reds and corals tones. White lipstick was also fashionable in the modeling world for a while
with models such as Twiggy styling this. ( Makeup and hair trends)


Mary Quant, who was a huge makeup artist in the 1960s released her own line of cosmetics
late in the decade. It was aimed at teenagers because of their following of top models at the
time. They packaged the makeup in black and silver compact packaging so it could be carried
around in a handbag. Every product also included a 'How to' leaflet in it. This was to teach
people how to look like the models they aspired to look like.


In the 60s winged eyeliner was a huge trend! However the same can be said in Egyptians times.
It was mainly wealthy people that did there makeup in Egyptian times as they had the time for
# someone to make there makeup up for them, whereas working class people would not have
as much time to be focusing on makeup. In the 60s brand such as Mary Quant made makeu
p affordable for everyone with it being mass produced to sell cheaper. This meant a variety of
people could wear makeup not just the wealthy. Most people in the 60s were open to women
wearing makeup as shown in the ‘how to’ leaflets given in makeup, showing everyone could
have a try of it. Also because of the models at the time such as Twiggy tell the public it was
trendy to wear makeup like her. Whereas in the early Egyptian times people were more open
to woman wearing makeup but as it went on they started to think it was more for royalty and
wealthier people. Style icons of these times such as Cleopatra and Twiggy both influenced their
time period in different ways with Twiggy influencing makeup and Cleopatra just showing off
what the royalty had at the time.


The ingredients in makeup at these times are very different With the 60s using machines and
factories to make packaged products ready to sell and the Egyptians using hand made products
for locally sourced ingredients that wouldn't always be safe for the skin. They would have both
been made with completely different things. Such as the 60s were using black and silver plastic
to make their products hand held and compact and their product would include more chemicals
instead of natural ingredients. With the safety laws of makeup about to change in the late 60s
this would change the way makeup was made forever, making it a lot safer to wear.
Chucky eyeliner and mascara were both very popular in both these time periods. Some aspects
of the styles are the same of both these time period such as the chunkiness of the eyeliner and
the Egyptian famous cat eye. Mascara was also popular in these time periods with handmade
kohl eyeliner in the Egyption times and packaged safe mascara in the 60s. Both would give the
same effect but one was a lot more compact and most importantly safe.


Eyeliner and mascara was also used in the 20s. However eyeliner was very different in the
20s than the 60s. As the 60s trends showed eyeliner as black, thick and chunky, it was the
complete opposite. It was fashionable to have a thin bit of liner on the lid in mostly brown.
Instead of a wing out toward the Eyebrow like the 60s it curved down towards the inner
corner of the eye.
The packaging of makeup at these time period was quite similar. As big makeup brands like Elizabeth
Arden being around at both time periods aiming to make makeup more popular in more people by
making it more handy and portable. Between the 1920s and the 1960s makeup had developed more
and became more accessible for the average woman.


Eyebrows were also very popular to shape as both time periods using the same technique of plucking
them in shape and filling them in. However the shape in both periods were very different and the 20s
fashion being curved and thin making them look quite sad looking and natural. On the other hand the
60s fashion was to have the brows full bodied and very sculpted. The eyebrows were quite large when
looking at photos of models of this time. Peachy cheeks were also in fashion with both the 20s and 60s
using a peachy pink blush on the cheeks.
Peachy cheeks were also very popular in the tudor times as shown on Henry VIIIs wives. They did this to
exaggerate how pale they were as it would bring some colour back to their faces after applying lots of
white paint. It would make it look more natural even though they were applying a lot more makeup.
In the 60s pale foundation was also in fashion in a cream form. This would of been made of non toxic
ingredients that wouldn't harm the face. Unlike the homemade foundations of the Tudor time which were
made from ingredients such as lead and sometimes mercury which is highly toxic and caused many
women's deaths of this time period. With the new laws of the late 1960s where makeup has to be
safe to use this was no longer a problem as they found safer products to use.


The Tudor times had a fashion of a natural looking arch shape. They would achieve this by plucking them
into shape and define them in with makeup. 1960s eyebrows were quite different with woman wanting
there brows to look like the models in the magazines of that time. They would shape them quite a lot to
make them seem more shaped. Also in the 60s big eyes were wanted by woman. They would wear lots
of mascara and eyelashes to give the appearance of bigger eyes. The Tudors didn't have fake
eyelashes. However they wanted to achieve this look as well They wore a lot of makeup on their eyelashes to give
the appearance of them being thicker and fuller.


In the 60s the ‘how to’ leaflets showed that everyone could do makeup and anyone could have a go and
they would teach you how. Where as for the Tudor women would only have portraits of other people to
compare there makeup to if they ever tried. Makeup was for the wealthy so if you were working on the
land it would of looked silly trying to do you makeup for that. They would also have to retrieve all their
own ingredients which most wouldn't of been able to afford or find as most of it was imported to europe.
Cosmetics were not that popular in this time period therefore if you wore it, you would stand out.
That would not of been seen at as a good thing.


This is the same with the 20s as wearing makeup had also got a stigma and it wouldn't make you
a ‘nice girl’. Only models and actresses were accepted to wear makeup as it was their job. For
other woman this was just an influence for something that would not be very accepted at this time.
Some woman still did wear makeup even though it was seen as ‘bad’. This is the same for the woman
of the Egyption period. They were oppressed to wear makeup as it was seen only for royalty. Again
some woman still took influence of royalty and still attempted to wear makeup.


The women that did do there makeup in the 1920s would often use brown eyeliner and applied to
there upper lash line close the the eyelashes. This was a very popular trend. However, the Egyptians
are well known for there eyeliner shapes shown in busts found in tombs and also in the hieroglyphics.
They would often have quite chunky black eyeliner with the very well known cat eye effect and
sometimes more patterns drawn on the face around the eyes shown in the hieroglyphics.
The eyebrow of the Egyptian times were shaped thin and curved with a slight downwards point
at the inner eye, only brown or black pencil. This is very similar to the eyebrow fashion of the
1920s as they wanted their eyebrows to look quite sad looking. The downwards point in this eyebrow
will give this effect using this technique.


These 1920s brows are also quite similar to the Tudor fashion as natural eyebrows were what people
aimed for. Therefore, the natural curve and soft bend in the eyebrow does not make it too sharp looking
and make it look unnatural. Another trend of the 1920s was for everyone to have a ‘sun-kissed glow’
with big brand making tanning products so just about anyone could look like the had been on holiday.
However this was the complete opposite to the Tudor times as being tanned made you appar poor and
less wealthy as it would show you were working in the fields so hours to earn money. The paler the
better in these days. They would apply white paint to give them a pale look. This could be their version
of fake tan just in the complete opposite way.


As being pale was very fashionable in these times and people would paint themselves white to give this
appearance this trend made people make their own products out of ingredients such as lead and
mercury which are highly toxic. In the Egyptian times they would also use toxic ingredients to make
makeup and beauty products. This made women die in both time periods as they wanted to keep up
with the trends and also because they did not have the education we have now on how toxic products
were. To them they were just copying what other people did.


From the Egyptian times to the 60s makeup has always came in out out of fashion. Different aspects of
the makeup trends have changed time and time again. From the styles of tan in the tudor times to
the trends of thin eyebrows in the 20s styles are always changing. However some styles can be
timeless and can be reused throughout the periods like the 1960s cut crease that has became more
popular now again. Also the soft natural curve eyebrows of the 1920s were also in fashion in the
Tudor times. Trends go back and forth from different time periods, such as eyebrow, eyeshadow and
foundation styles. However some can transform a time period and make it a lasting memory of that time.
Makeup can help us all remember certain times in our lives just because of the trends of the time.


Bibliography


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