Bugzy Malone- Tallulah - The 1920s

1920s research

Before the 1920’s “nice girls” did not wear makeup, it was known as “paint”. This was different from
face creams as these products were intended to improve the skin, not mask it the way “paint” did.

At first beauty products were not about changing looks but about enhancing natural beauty
(Evolution of makeup). In the 20s beauty and cosmetic lines became big business. Helen Rubinstein
and Elizabeth Arden worked alongside chemists to make some of the first sunblocks. Elizabeth Arden
started to create powders that were tinted to give a sun-kissed glow,  she made liquid rouge eyeshadow
and lipsticks, choice of makeup in the 20s was limited and never matched natural skin tones. Women
had never been taught to apply makeup so the effect was often ghastly. Makeup improved and
progressed during this decade and it became a 52 million dollar industry. (vintage Dancer)

Popular lipsticks for the decade were Raspberry-red for most of the 20s and rose-red by the late 20s, these also became available in a compact due to their popularity. Lipstick had been around in metal tubes since 1915, ladies enjoyed being able to carry their lipstick with them and touch up when needed. Ladies in the 20s used a matte red for their lips, eyes smudged kohl rims. Kohl was used as eye shadow cream which became more available later in the decade. Dark grays were favorite but woman chose shades that matched the eye colour. Eyebrows were shaped thin and curved with a slight downwards point at the inner eye, only brown or black pencil for the eye was available until later in the decade. (vintage beauty parlour).

As Max factor quotes “You are not born glamorous, glamor is created”. Coco Chanel popularized a now
classic look in the 20s; dark eyes, red lipstick and suntan. The silver screen played a great part in the
1920s and magazines like photography discussed the virtues of beauty and what was acceptable or
not in the world of cosmetics. Women wanted to look like the film stars of the day from hair to make up.
Stars like Clara Bow and Josephine Baker made the “flapper” look very popular (The story of makeup)
cupid's-bow lips were a popular look for “flapper” girls in the 1920s (Period makeup) and strong dark
eyes.

A Lot of the big makeup brands are still around from the this decade and still known designer names ie; Coco Chanel and Elizabeth Arden are still worldwide leaders in the cosmetic industry. Beautiful packaging that started in the 20s is still around today. Ladies like to be able to carry lipsticks around in their handbags and still like to copy new techniques to apply makeup or still copy the stars of today. Also magazines play a major part in advertising and images to sell makeup products.

Bugsy Malone film.
Set in the 1920s just before the wall street crash when there was a rich, thriving economy where flappers and dancing played a big part in society is a gangster comedy musical was created in 1976. tallulah portrays a strong feminine identity. She is seductive and she is a well-lusted character. Tallulah is very confident and reflects the way woman were viewed by the gangsters in the 1920s.
The film is set in New York City and is based on events from the prohibition era in NYC and Chicago. As the film is a comedy. However, machine guns are substituted with 'splurge' guns in order to meet the comedy element of the musical. The film set is mainly orientated around a speakeasy belonging to 'Fat Sam'. Tallulah is Fat Sams girlfriend and the singer who performers at the speakeasy. despite this, she is flirty with Bugsy Malone and attempts to kiss him. this reflects the mischievous side to her nature.

Character profile 

THE BASICS

Name   Tallulah (Second name unknown)
Age      (unknown)
Place of birth    New york city
Current location   New york city
Occupation     Speakeasy star- 
Singer/Dancer
Class     Wealthy

PHYSICAL APPEARANCE

• Eye color  Blue
• Hair style  Short typical, 20s curled style
• Build     Childs body, small and slim

What's their preferred outfit?   Very dressy, classy and sparkily 

What accessories are ALWAYS associated with them?  Her red lipstcik

Do they have any distinguishing “tics” and mannerisms?  Flirtatious 

How do they walk?  Confident, powerful and very flirtatious.

SPEECH AND COMMUNICATION

How do they talk?  Slow and sexy. Very directed to catch peoples attention.

What's the style of their speech? Quite informal using words like "comin" instead of coming. 

Posture: Casual as she dances and walks arund while singing. she leans on the walls and on the piano while talking to people.

How much eye contact that they like to make? She is very direct with eye contact looking straight into inderviduyals eyes while singing to them. 

What's their catchphrase?  "I dont say where im going, or where im comin from"

Describe their smile?   Vey flirty and cute 

Moodboard


Makeup plan 

1. First of all, I will start by cleaning the face to make sure we have a clean base to start.
2. I will then block out the eyebrows using Ben Nye scar wax and a spatula making sure to cover all the eyebrows by smoothing the wax along the eyebrow in the same direction. A technique that may help me may be to use vaseline on my finger to help smooth the wrinkles out making sure to only use a small about as a large amount may lift the product.
3. I will use RCMA translucent powder to set the eyebrows in place using an eyeshadow brush to pack the product in to ensure it won't move.
4. I then colour corrected the eyebrows to make them cover better with foundation.
5. I will then apply foundation all over the face using a sponge to get a flawless finish. Then use some lighter concealer under the eyes and on any imperfections on the face and blend them in with a clean new sponge. 
6. I will then set the face with the same RCMA translucent powder. 
7. then, I will draw natural curve eyebrow shape on the face just above the blocked out eyebrows. Making to sure to use the original 1920s images as a reference in order to make them as accurate as possible. 
8. Next, I will apply the eye shadow applying the brown base and blending it close to the nose like the 20s trends also did. Then apply some blue eyeshadow to the center of the eyelid. Make sure to blend the brown eyeshadow under the eyes. Add mascara
9. I will then apply some contour to the cheeks and forehead to make the face look smaller and more childlike as the film has child actors. 
10. Add red lip liner and red lipstick and gloss to ensure the lips are full and red.
11. Lastly, do the hair by slicking it all back and creating a low bun. Then use small pieces of hair from around the face and barrel curl them with my fingers and apply them to the face using Vaseline. 

Review
Overall I think this makeup went really well as on camera it looks very realistic and true to the 1920s era. I think if you stook back from this photograph you would be able to tell what the time period was with most features sticking out and showing signs of this time period. The hair shows the time period well I think as the tight curls on the face were a very popular style in the 20s. I created these curls by sectioning the hair into different sectioning making sure the pieces that would be curled were quite small. I used my fingers to curl the small pieces of hair into a tight curl. I then hairspray the curls to get them to stick together. I think used Vaseline to stick the hair to the face. I used Vaseline instead of pros-aid like I did in my experimentation. I used vaseline as the pros-aid left a shiny residue after applying the hair and it wasn't easy for the model to take off and ended up damaging her hair. 
The rest of the hair went into a low bun which I created by putting the hair in a low ponytail and curling it up then gripping it. This worked quite well however, pieces kept falling out and it wouldn't be suitable to use in the film as she dances around all day and so it wouldn't stay in. If I did this again I would definitely try and use a hair donut or something like that ad I think that the bun needed something in the middle to support it was that was why it was falling out. 

For the eyebrows, I used Ben Nye syn wax. This covered the brows amazing and you could barely see them. I used my hands to warm up the product and used a spatula to blend it on the eyebrow. I then used a technique called colour correcting to make sure they would not be seen under the foundation. I used orange grease paint to do this as it colour corrected the brown and made it invisible. I then powdered the eyebrows using the RCMA translucent powder. I packed this on the eyebrows using a sponge. This worked really well as it got the product fully in all the creases of the syn wax.

I then used foundation and a clean new sponge to apply all over the face. Making sure to dab the product over the eyebrows and remembering to cover the ears and neck. I then used light concealer under the eyes to cover any imperfections with the under eyes. I used a small brush for this and it didn't get the effect I wanted for it to look perfect under the eyes. Next time doing this I would use a sponge to get the product on thicker. I then applied the same powder on the under eyes and lift a thick layer there to catch the fallout and a thin layer all over the face.

I then drew the new shape eyebrows on the face using an Anastasia Dip brow and a quite compact eyeliner brush. I used my reference images for this making sure to use my reserch while doing this makeup. I needed to make them have a natural curve in the brow and extend the ned of the brown down to make the face have a sad look to it. I think these went really well and really showed off the time period I was going for as the brows of the 1920s are very distinctive. I think the dip brow worked well as it would have been similar to the consistency that they would have had in the 20s.

For the eyes, I used brown shade from a Lick and lash palette and a blue shade from the Morphe 35B palette. I used these colours as last time I did this makeup I used all browns and I didn't feel like it stood out enough on camera. I feel this pop of blue really opens the eyes up. I made sure to blend the eyeshadow towards the nose as this is what they did in the 1920s. This will help with the 'sad eyes' effect they all wanted so much.
For the rest of the face, I added some contour using a Tilt contour palette. This made the face have some more colour and depth to it as it gives it some dimension. Next time I would do this stronger to define the checks more and possibly some nose contour to make it stand out more. I then added some brusher to the face in a Corel colour to give the face some colour back to the skin. This was also a trend in the 1920s as blush was very popular.
Lastly, I added some red lipstick in Russian red and I added some Essence red shine lipgloss to the lips to make the sparkle in the different lighting to catch peoples attention. Next time I would use the red colour but possibly not as bright, maybe a slight bit more coral shade.