Bugzy Malone- Tallulah - The 1920s

1920s research

Before the 1920’s “nice girls” did not wear makeup, it was known as “paint”. This was different from
face creams as these products were intended to improve the skin, not mask it the way “paint” did.

At first beauty products were not about changing looks but about enhancing natural beauty
(Evolution of makeup). In the 20s beauty and cosmetic lines became big business. Helen Rubinstein
and Elizabeth Arden worked alongside chemists to make some of the first sunblocks. Elizabeth Arden
started to create powders that were tinted to give a sun-kissed glow,  she made liquid rouge eyeshadow
and lipsticks, choice of makeup in the 20s was limited and never matched natural skin tones. Women
had never been taught to apply makeup so the effect was often ghastly. Makeup improved and
progressed during this decade and it became a 52 million dollar industry. (vintage Dancer)

Popular lipsticks for the decade were Raspberry-red for most of the 20s and rose-red by the late 20s, these also became available in a compact due to their popularity. Lipstick had been around in metal tubes since 1915, ladies enjoyed being able to carry their lipstick with them and touch up when needed. Ladies in the 20s used a matte red for their lips, eyes smudged kohl rims. Kohl was used as eye shadow cream which became more available later in the decade. Dark grays were favorite but woman chose shades that matched the eye colour. Eyebrows were shaped thin and curved with a slight downwards point at the inner eye, only brown or black pencil for the eye was available until later in the decade. (vintage beauty parlour).

As Max factor quotes “You are not born glamorous, glamor is created”. Coco Chanel popularized a now
classic look in the 20s; dark eyes, red lipstick and suntan. The silver screen played a great part in the
1920s and magazines like photography discussed the virtues of beauty and what was acceptable or
not in the world of cosmetics. Women wanted to look like the film stars of the day from hair to make up.
Stars like Clara Bow and Josephine Baker made the “flapper” look very popular (The story of makeup)
cupid's-bow lips were a popular look for “flapper” girls in the 1920s (Period makeup) and strong dark
eyes.

A Lot of the big makeup brands are still around from the this decade and still known designer names ie; Coco Chanel and Elizabeth Arden are still worldwide leaders in the cosmetic industry. Beautiful packaging that started in the 20s is still around today. Ladies like to be able to carry lipsticks around in their handbags and still like to copy new techniques to apply makeup or still copy the stars of today. Also magazines play a major part in advertising and images to sell makeup products.

Bugsy Malone film.
Set in the 1920s just before the wall street crash when there was a rich, thriving economy where flappers and dancing played a big part in society is a gangster comedy musical was created in 1976. tallulah portrays a strong feminine identity. She is seductive and she is a well-lusted character. Tallulah is very confident and reflects the way woman were viewed by the gangsters in the 1920s.
The film is set in New York City and is based on events from the prohibition era in NYC and Chicago. As the film is a comedy. However, machine guns are substituted with 'splurge' guns in order to meet the comedy element of the musical. The film set is mainly orientated around a speakeasy belonging to 'Fat Sam'. Tallulah is Fat Sams girlfriend and the singer who performers at the speakeasy. despite this, she is flirty with Bugsy Malone and attempts to kiss him. this reflects the mischievous side to her nature.

Character profile 

THE BASICS

Name   Tallulah (Second name unknown)
Age      (unknown)
Place of birth    New york city
Current location   New york city
Occupation     Speakeasy star- 
Singer/Dancer
Class     Wealthy

PHYSICAL APPEARANCE

• Eye color  Blue
• Hair style  Short typical, 20s curled style
• Build     Childs body, small and slim

What's their preferred outfit?   Very dressy, classy and sparkily 

What accessories are ALWAYS associated with them?  Her red lipstcik

Do they have any distinguishing “tics” and mannerisms?  Flirtatious 

How do they walk?  Confident, powerful and very flirtatious.

SPEECH AND COMMUNICATION

How do they talk?  Slow and sexy. Very directed to catch peoples attention.

What's the style of their speech? Quite informal using words like "comin" instead of coming. 

Posture: Casual as she dances and walks arund while singing. she leans on the walls and on the piano while talking to people.

How much eye contact that they like to make? She is very direct with eye contact looking straight into inderviduyals eyes while singing to them. 

What's their catchphrase?  "I dont say where im going, or where im comin from"

Describe their smile?   Vey flirty and cute 

Moodboard


Makeup plan 

1. First of all, I will start by cleaning the face to make sure we have a clean base to start.
2. I will then block out the eyebrows using Ben Nye scar wax and a spatula making sure to cover all the eyebrows by smoothing the wax along the eyebrow in the same direction. A technique that may help me may be to use vaseline on my finger to help smooth the wrinkles out making sure to only use a small about as a large amount may lift the product.
3. I will use RCMA translucent powder to set the eyebrows in place using an eyeshadow brush to pack the product in to ensure it won't move.
4. I then colour corrected the eyebrows to make them cover better with foundation.
5. I will then apply foundation all over the face using a sponge to get a flawless finish. Then use some lighter concealer under the eyes and on any imperfections on the face and blend them in with a clean new sponge. 
6. I will then set the face with the same RCMA translucent powder. 
7. then, I will draw natural curve eyebrow shape on the face just above the blocked out eyebrows. Making to sure to use the original 1920s images as a reference in order to make them as accurate as possible. 
8. Next, I will apply the eye shadow applying the brown base and blending it close to the nose like the 20s trends also did. Then apply some blue eyeshadow to the center of the eyelid. Make sure to blend the brown eyeshadow under the eyes. Add mascara
9. I will then apply some contour to the cheeks and forehead to make the face look smaller and more childlike as the film has child actors. 
10. Add red lip liner and red lipstick and gloss to ensure the lips are full and red.
11. Lastly, do the hair by slicking it all back and creating a low bun. Then use small pieces of hair from around the face and barrel curl them with my fingers and apply them to the face using Vaseline. 

Review
Overall I think this makeup went really well as on camera it looks very realistic and true to the 1920s era. I think if you stook back from this photograph you would be able to tell what the time period was with most features sticking out and showing signs of this time period. The hair shows the time period well I think as the tight curls on the face were a very popular style in the 20s. I created these curls by sectioning the hair into different sectioning making sure the pieces that would be curled were quite small. I used my fingers to curl the small pieces of hair into a tight curl. I then hairspray the curls to get them to stick together. I think used Vaseline to stick the hair to the face. I used Vaseline instead of pros-aid like I did in my experimentation. I used vaseline as the pros-aid left a shiny residue after applying the hair and it wasn't easy for the model to take off and ended up damaging her hair. 
The rest of the hair went into a low bun which I created by putting the hair in a low ponytail and curling it up then gripping it. This worked quite well however, pieces kept falling out and it wouldn't be suitable to use in the film as she dances around all day and so it wouldn't stay in. If I did this again I would definitely try and use a hair donut or something like that ad I think that the bun needed something in the middle to support it was that was why it was falling out. 

For the eyebrows, I used Ben Nye syn wax. This covered the brows amazing and you could barely see them. I used my hands to warm up the product and used a spatula to blend it on the eyebrow. I then used a technique called colour correcting to make sure they would not be seen under the foundation. I used orange grease paint to do this as it colour corrected the brown and made it invisible. I then powdered the eyebrows using the RCMA translucent powder. I packed this on the eyebrows using a sponge. This worked really well as it got the product fully in all the creases of the syn wax.

I then used foundation and a clean new sponge to apply all over the face. Making sure to dab the product over the eyebrows and remembering to cover the ears and neck. I then used light concealer under the eyes to cover any imperfections with the under eyes. I used a small brush for this and it didn't get the effect I wanted for it to look perfect under the eyes. Next time doing this I would use a sponge to get the product on thicker. I then applied the same powder on the under eyes and lift a thick layer there to catch the fallout and a thin layer all over the face.

I then drew the new shape eyebrows on the face using an Anastasia Dip brow and a quite compact eyeliner brush. I used my reference images for this making sure to use my reserch while doing this makeup. I needed to make them have a natural curve in the brow and extend the ned of the brown down to make the face have a sad look to it. I think these went really well and really showed off the time period I was going for as the brows of the 1920s are very distinctive. I think the dip brow worked well as it would have been similar to the consistency that they would have had in the 20s.

For the eyes, I used brown shade from a Lick and lash palette and a blue shade from the Morphe 35B palette. I used these colours as last time I did this makeup I used all browns and I didn't feel like it stood out enough on camera. I feel this pop of blue really opens the eyes up. I made sure to blend the eyeshadow towards the nose as this is what they did in the 1920s. This will help with the 'sad eyes' effect they all wanted so much.
For the rest of the face, I added some contour using a Tilt contour palette. This made the face have some more colour and depth to it as it gives it some dimension. Next time I would do this stronger to define the checks more and possibly some nose contour to make it stand out more. I then added some brusher to the face in a Corel colour to give the face some colour back to the skin. This was also a trend in the 1920s as blush was very popular.
Lastly, I added some red lipstick in Russian red and I added some Essence red shine lipgloss to the lips to make the sparkle in the different lighting to catch peoples attention. Next time I would use the red colour but possibly not as bright, maybe a slight bit more coral shade.

The 1960s - Psycho 1960 - Marion Crane

1960s Research
The most prominent amongst all iconic 1960s makeup trends was a thick winged eyeliner.

A famous model of this time was a woman called Twiggy. She was very well known for using

the thick eyeliner look. Women would draw a thick line across of their eye, keeping it close to

the lash line. This gave the cat eye appearance as well as making the eyes look more open.

To complete the look they would flick the line out aiming towards the tale of the eyebrow and

it created a wing effect. This was done with a black eyeliner pencil. (Hair and make-up artist)

Eyeshadow at this time period was mostly cool tones like brown and light reds. Big brands

around this time such as Helena Rubinstein and Max Factor would create palettes to give

everyone the opportunity to look like models such as

Twiggy giving everyone a chance to look like a model.

(Photo from Retro beauty)

A quote from Twiggy herself says "The sixties were a time when ordinary people could do

extraordinary things". (Iconic makeup trends). This shows that any women were accepted to

wear makeup therefore big brands at the time would produce affordable palettes for the

population, making trends start such as the chunky eyeliner trend set off my Twiggy.

Cut crease eyeshadow was a huge trend of the 60s and it is very recognisable from this

time period. A cut crease is where the lid of the eye is curved out precisely with the eyeshadow color,

covering the entirety of the space, while the crease is blended out with an alternate colour.

(Makeup and hair trends).

(Photo from Retro beauty)

False eyelashes also came out in the 60s, again because of model Twiggy and her unique eyelash

style. She used them in photographs on the top and bottom lash line to make her eyes appear much

larger.  The longer and spidery they were the better. Then a large amount of mascara over the top.

Brands such as Max factor 'Magic mascara' were very popular at this time. (Marie Claire)

(Photo from Makeup and hair trends)

In the 60s pale cream foundation was used to cover the face as pale skin was in fashion at

this time. Peachy cheeks were in fashion thanks again to the models of the time. (Retro beauty)

This would be applied using powder as cream as liquid blushes were not available yet.

Eyebrows at this time would be perfectly sculpted and with a full body. They would be very

well groomed also. They achieved this look by plucking them to the correct shape and

filling them in using an eyebrow pencil. Pale pink lipstick was also in fashion and occasional

subtle reds and corals tones. White lipstick was also fashionable in the modeling world for a

while with models such as Twiggy styling this. ( Makeup and hair trends)

Mary Quant, who was a huge makeup artist in the 1960s released her own line of cosmetics

late in the decade. It was aimed at teenagers because of their following of top models at the

time. They packaged the makeup in black and silver compact packaging so it could be

carried around in a handbag. Every product also included a 'How to' leaflet in it. This was

to teach people how to look like the models they aspired to look like.

Psycho 1960 - Film

Psycho the book was published in 1959.The book was written by Rober
Bloch who was an american writer at this time. Due it how popular the horror book was it was
then turned into a film was brought out on June 16th 1960. The film was driected and
produced by Alfred Hitchcock and it was written by Joseph Stepano. Some of the actors and
actresses in the film were Anothony Perkins, Janet Leigh, John Gavin, Vera Miles and Martin
Balasm. This film is now a classic and still to this day spin offs of this story such as Bates
Motel (2013-2018) still being made from inspirtaion from this film.

Marion Crane in the film was played by a lady called Janet leigh. This charcters mother Lily
crane, her niece mary Lommis and her boyfirnd/ brother in law have all deceased. Leaving
her mostely all by herself. After stealing £40,000 in cash from her employes. marion drives
well into the night, she pulls off the road and pulls into The Bates Motel. There she meets
Norman bates (who is a minipulated by his mother). Norman offers his supper with her.
She hears shouting from the house between Norman and his mother. She goes for a shower,
unseen behind her the bathroom door opens. A figure appoches and pulls back the shower
curtain. it is a figure of a old woman wielding a large knife. Marion screams and the blade
lifts high into the air screening violins, violas and cellos is heard as Marions blody body slides
down the shower curatin. The sound of the knife entering the flesh was created by plunging
a knife into a casuba melon. Also the blood was created by using Basco chocolate syrup
becaus eit shows up better on black and white film. Also, it has more of a realistic denisity
than stage blood at this time.

Character profile 

THE BASICS

Name   Merion Crane

Age      (unknown)

Place of birth    Pyoenix, arizona    

Current location   Pyornix, Arizona 

Occupation     Office worker

PHYSICAL APPEARANCE

• Eye color   Brown 
• Hair style      (No description in book)

What's their preferred outfit?     Smart as she works in a office.

How do they walk?  quick quickly yet with grace.

SPEECH AND COMMUNICATION

How do they talk?  Quite slow and confident.. 

What's the style of their speech? Quite posh and well spoken. No slang used.

Posture:  Very straight and smart 

How much eye contact that they like to make? 

Any Quotes fromt he chatcer? "I think perhaps all of us go a little crazy at times"

Moodboard 

Makeup plan 

Review

As Psycho is a well known classic in the movie industry I really wanted to make this makeup

amazing and stand out. When watching the film you see Marion crane in the shower being
stabbed. However, you never see the actually see the blood or the stap wounds. I
personally feel this would of made the scene look more realistic and horror like. In the novel
it describes the scene as 'blood everywhere' I used this as inspiration for my makeup look as I feel
it makes the visual appearance of the movie really expand and come to life. The stab
wounds went very well in my option as I used real stab wound images as reference to make it look as realistic as possible. My makeup stab wounds were made from 3rd degree and I
used a modeling tool to carve out a stab wound shape marking sure to reference my images while doing this. I applied power over the top of the mixture once it had dried.
Once dried I used Merhon greasepaints to fill in the stab wounds and give them some depth.
I also used a stipple sponge and greasepaints to create some bruising around the cuts to show she as been grabbed and tried to get away. I then added this scab blood to the cuts as this iis really thick. In the movie they used chocolate syrup which is thick to create the blood. I thought

the would be most accurate to that as this is thick but because this film is in colour not black and

white the blood colour would look more realistic. If I did this again I would add the blood just

before I finished. This way I wouldn't dry as much as it did. On the photos the stab wounds

 looked quite old instead of fresh.

I then applied foundation all over the face, neck and ears and made sure it was all watched perfect as she was meant to be in the shower in the scene so I don't want to be visible that she has loads of foundation on. A sponge worked really well for this. Next, I applied RCMA powder all over the face making sure to apply it to the under eyes to catch the eye shadow fall out.

On the eyes, I used a light blown shade on the upper eye and creates a subtle cut crease which was in fashion in this time period. I then applied mascara to the upper and bottom lashes. I then used some water and the mascara want to drip down the mascara to make it look like she was crying and that her makeup had run also because she was meant to be in the shower.

I then lightly contoured the face to give it come dimension. I feel next time I did this I should add more contour as it didn't show up very well on camera.

Lastly I applied coral lipstick to the model as this shade was very popular in the 1960s.

I made her hair a half up half down look and back combed the top to give it some volume. I then curled the ends of the hair to give it a more flicks at the ends  look as this was in fashion. In my research a lot of models at this time wore white headbands so I wanted to create this. I made this one from bedroll and it think it was a good improvise. However, if I did this again I think I would buy one as on the camera it didn't look very plastic like a headband would.

Ancient Egypt - Cleopatra

The Egyptians research
Many cosmetic materials still popular today including kohl and henna were first used in ancient Egypt. (The evolution of makeup)

Makeup artists have been around since the days of the Egyptians and their influence on fashion, media and consumers can be seen in the way they are now recognized as their faces were painted. The Egyptians were sophisticated chemists and they loved makeup, blending ingredients to prepare cosmetics. Ranging from moisturiser rizer, kohl, lip and cheek rouge to nail colour. (The story of makeup). They would make various powders from natural materials including nuts and minerals. They would then mix them with animal fat and or vegetable oil to make the texture of the mixture so that it would be able to be applied to the face with ease. Mixing equipment such as palettes, grinders and applicators have been found among the earliest burial sites. (The story of makeup).                          (Photo from the BBC)

This suggests they were not only essential in daily life but also in the afterlife. The Egyptians are mainly known for their eye makeup. However, they also are known for their use of bright red lipsticks that were homemade from red ochre.

Egyption women would wear a lot of makeup compared with woman of later centuries. (The story of makeup). Women of the Egyptian time period had a fair amount of autonomy. An early document called 'The Wilbour papyrus' shows us that ten to eleven percent of landowners were female. (The woman of smallholders and the military). A reason for this could be to do with the fact they had a female leader on the throne called Nefertiti. As one of the most powerful women in ancient Egypt, Nefertiti was queen alongside Pharaoh Akhenaten from 1353 to 1336 B.C. and ruled Egypt after her husband’s death. Nefertiti is best known for her painted sandstone bust, which was rediscovered in 1913 and became a global icon of feminine beauty and power. (History Channel)

Ancient Egypt was so accepting of makeup and had a lot of experimental work because it was one of the first societies to wear makeup. However, as time goes on civilizations would not prove to be so open-minded.

Men used to style their lashes just as often as women. They used kohl and ointments to darken the lashes, which also served as protection for their eyes from the sun's harmful rays. (Marie C

laire)

Hieroglyphics were called, by the Egyptians, “the words of God” and were used mainly by the priests. This art included images of things that were happening at the time and images of people. This gives us today a good insight into what the makeup actually looked like in the ancient Egyptian time as they are drawings from that time period and it is a very good primary source for getting a real look into the Egyptian fashion. (Discover Egypt)

The ancient palette

Rouge is the longest-lasting makeup item in existence, it is a multipurpose item and it is a primary
colour that can quite easily be made. 'The earliest rouge would have been sticks of red ochre pigment
made by iron oxides with animal fat or vegetable oil' (They story of makeup). Cochineal and kermes

types of insects were dried and used to produce carmine pigment, a bloody-red lead. This was used
over many different cultures and time periods including ancient Egypt, China, Japan, Rome and Greece.
This photo here is a ancient palette from in Egypt from a tomb.

(Photo from ‘The Metropolitan Museum of Art’)

Cleopatra

Cleopatra has been described as one of the most beautiful style icons that has ever been. From hieroglyphics drawn from the Egyptian times to busts fond from thousands of years ago, we can see that her style change the Egyptian times for the better. As shown in her bust found in her tomb in
Aston who was the owner of the bust from the museum has said: "it is not surprising then that some earlier-style features found their way into the Roman-Egyptian repertoire of Cleopatra's time, which also explains why scholars have struggled to place the ROM's piece.". This shows that the bust had been created in a way to show all the beauty of Cleopatra and make her look as perfect as they could because they have modified the bust. Cleopatra VII ruled ancient Egypt as co-regent (first with her two younger brothers and then with her son) for almost three decades. She became the last in a dynasty of Macedonian rulers founded by Ptolemy, who served as general under Alexander the Great during his conquest of Egypt in 332 B.C. 

Character profile

Name  Cleopatra VII Thea Philopator

Age    39

Place of birth      Alexandria, Egypt

Current location      Alexandria, Egypt

Class         High 
Quotes?    'All strange and terrible events are welcome, but comforts we despise'. Cleopatra

Moodboard

Makeup plan

1. First of all, I will apply the foundation making sure to make it a slightly darker shade than normal as it is for editorial. 
2. Use a lighter concealer shade and apply under the eyes. blend with a clean new sponge. 
3. Set the foundation with RCMA powder making sure to apply a thick layer under the eyes to catch the eyeshadow fall out. 
4. Then apply eyebrows using Cleopatras bust as a reference. Do this using dark (almost black) powder.
5. Next use bright blue eyeshadow to the lids blending them around the eyes to make the eyes look bright and bold. 
6. Add a black wing eyeliner to both eyes making the flick quick long and wide in order to be seen. 
7. Add contour and highlight. The highlight is gold flakes to be applied using pros-aid. On the check and collarbone. 
8. Add gold liquid lipstick on lips and apply gold flakes on top. 
9. Next, apply hieroglyphics using facepaint to the arms including the inner arms using reference photos of actual hieroglyphics.
10. Using facepaint apply eye pattern to left hand to connect to the face. Also, add snake on the right hand to line up with forehead when laces correctly. 

Review
I think this Cleopatra makeup turned out really well as the brief was to create period makeup for an advert. I think this piece works well for this as it has a lot of aspects to show off the makeup (in this case I went for eyeliner). Such as the hieroglyphics on the arms and hands really show what could be possible with the eyeliner and could inspire customers to purchase this eyeliner to have a go themselves. It also uses aspects of Egyptian period makeup, making it accurate to the time period. I used my research of the Egyptians to create this look. 

I started off by applying foundation to the full face. I used a darker shade of foundation as Cleopatra would have had darker skin with living in Egypt. As my model was very pale I decided to darken her skin with the foundation. Next time doing this makeup I would make the foundation slightly darker than I did as the colour washed out when the flash on the camera was on. I then powdered all of the face using the RCMA translusant powder. I made sure to apply quite abit under the eyes to catch the eyeshadow fall out as it is easier to take it off the face this way.

I then applied the eye shadow using Morphe 35B palette. I applied a bold layer to the lid and then blended the colour up into the crease. If I did this makeup again I would of like to add more depth and colour to the lids to make it stand out more than it does. I wanted the eyeliner to stand out because that's what was being advertised. However, I think this makes the eyes fade away and not stand out. I then applied a tilt eyeliner to the eyelid with a small cat eye at the end using I thin eyeliner brush.

I applied contour to the face using the Tilt contour palette. If I did this makeup again make the contour darker. I also added highlighter to give the model a more glowing look. I thought this was a clever was to create a sweat appearance as Egypt is very hot without adding glycerine to the face as this wouldn't photograph well for this picture in particular.

Next I moved onto the eyebrows, I used my reference pictures a lot here to make sure they were accurate to the time period. I used black eye shadow for this as this would of been similar to the texture to what their makeup was like then. I am really proud of this makeup as I think they turned out really well. They don't draw your eyes to them however, they show the time period well and balance the face out.

I then used pros-aid and fake sheet glitter to

the cheek to create highlight and to the lips applying it with a Kylie gold liquid lipstick. I applied it with this as the model had dry lips so I thought the glue may rip the skin off on the lips when removal. Next time I did this makeup I would try and apply a think layer to the lips just to make them stick better as some bits kept falling off.

I then created a eye hieroglyphic on the hand to connect with the eye as I thought this would make the eyeliner stand out in the advert and also it makes the time period more prominent. I also added a snake onto the top of the other hand to create a headdress look again with a model twist for the advert. I used Merhon gold paint for this and snazaroo face paint for the body. overall I think this was a very good idea as it brings a lot more to the look. However, I feel like next time I did this makeup I would add more detail to the snake as it didn't show up that well on camera.

Lastly, I used face paint to the arms to create hieroglyphics using a primary reference photo to draw them. I love this idea as it shows the 'eyeliner' off more and may inspire customer to buy it as it may inspire them and make them want to recreate this look.

I edited this photo underneath to make it look like a Chanel advert magazine advert.